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Chetak Classic SL 2T - Light switch bodge

 
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Chetak Classic SL 2T - Light switch bodge
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LondonIan42



Joined: 06 Oct 2010
Posts: 39
Location: Gillingham - Dorset UK

Post Chetak Classic SL 2T - Light switch bodge Reply with quote
OK, it seems the stub from the turn switch on the classic SL is very prone to getting broken off and the switch assy are all but impossible to source without having to fly to India and finding one there lol...

{Photos to follow}

I have simply bypassed the problem, grabbed a old P range indicator toggle type switch from SIP for £13 and wired it in.

The wires in the switch on the headset are:

Grey/Red - Feed

Blue/White - Left indicator circuit

Green/White - Right indicator circuit.

On the P range switch, which was a six wire job, I cut off the yellow, purple and red leaving me with the white, brown and green.

On the P range switch:

White - Feed

Brown - Left indicator circuit

Green - Right indicator circuit.

Underneath the clutch lever is a plastic finisher plate, I used this to shape a metal bracket for the assy to bolt to, using the holes as a pattern for drilling, I used the P range standard central hole as one mounting point, there is a lot of empty space on the left hand side of the switch box itself and I just put another mounting hole through there as well and corresponding holes on the metal strip carrier.

It does need a bracket under the finisher as its quite soft plastic, I also made a little cutout for the wires to go through keeping it nice n tidy, I shaped it so it would fit over both bolts that secure the finisher, bending it so it was pretty flush with the plastic and drilling the mounting holes after shaping its contours.

Simply put, cutting the wires from the broken switch, grafting the corresponding wires and joining them tightly, I soldered over the joins and sealed up with heavy insulation tape, covering where I had cut the loom shroud up to expose the wires, bolted the original headset switch back in its place, bolted the finisher plate to the switch, then in turn put that back where it should be under the shift assy, tightened all screws and I now have indicators Smile

If you live in a wet country like the UK, it pays to coat the interior of the new switch with some damp protection lubricants and I sealed the box up tight with a nice wrapping of insulation tape again keeping the ends tucked inside the finisher so it does start to look unsightly lol

Interestingly, the throttle side of the headset has a central hole which takes the P range mounting screw so that will be an easy task if that gets broken.
Tue Oct 12, 2010 3:30 pm View user's profile Send private message
Marben



Joined: 10 Feb 2008
Posts: 28
Location: Italy, near Milan

Post Reply with quote
I've a Classic SL from 2004, switches work fine... Smile

Any photo of your work?

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Thu Oct 21, 2010 11:08 pm View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
LondonIan42



Joined: 06 Oct 2010
Posts: 39
Location: Gillingham - Dorset UK

Post Reply with quote
I took it off as it was very difficult in some turning circumstances to activate it, bought a switch off a dealer in New Delhi but loom is different so having to rebuild loom this weekend.

BTW my machine is a 1999 2T Classic SL with electric start, seems some changes came about between the date of yours and mine. I am not even sure what is in my machine tbh, Vespa barrel and aftermarket exhaust, piaggio stamps on some engine parts and bajaj electrics, if the engine dies I am going to pick up a scrapper early P range and put the engine, loom and headset straight on mine as parts are getting ridiculously hard to find.
Fri Oct 22, 2010 12:34 am View user's profile Send private message
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