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HOW-TO inspect / replace brake pads

 
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HOW-TO inspect / replace brake pads
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Angry J



Joined: 25 Mar 2007
Posts: 496
Location: Kansas City

Post HOW-TO inspect / replace brake pads Reply with quote
Hey all, I replaced my rear brakes the other day and thought I'd snap some photos. I've never really written a tutorial before, so this is what it is.

Tools needed:
13mm socket & wrench
14mm socket
24mm socket
Flathead screwdriver
mallet
Torque wrench or impact wrench
needle nose pliers

First photo - The bike with the rear tire removed. I propped the ass-end of the bike up on a cinder block for added stability. I placed a shop rag between the frame and the block.


2nd photo - Hub nut cover pulled away. Undo the cotter pin and remove the castle nut cover.


3rd photo - This tool isn't necessary, but makes for an easier job.


4th photo - Removing the hub nut. I tried using my air impact wrench in reverse, no no avail. I tried a wrench with about a 3 foot breaker, but it wouldn't budge. Finally, after reading about mattyx's use of a heat gun, I thought I'd try that. D'oh! Heat gun is at school. So, I used a barbecue grill lighter, and held it over the nut for about 30 seconds to hopefully expand it enough to get it off.


5th photo - Removing the 24mm hub nut. Once it had been heated a little, the impact zipped it right off.


6th photo - Used a flathead screwdriver to loosen the bushing and remove it.


7th photo - I couldn't take a photo of this. I had to tap the hub from the reverse side with a hammer and block of wood to loosen it from the axle. (thanks to monza)

8th photo - The 5 year old brake pads with 13,000 miles on them. Looks like there's life left if I scuffed them up some, but a set of brake pads are under $20 and the service manual says to replace after 12,000 anyway, so I just replaced them.
*pull the rear-most spring off of the shoe with needle nose pliers or a hook.
*Once it's off, you can pull the shoes apart and remove them from the post without taking the other spring off.
*note the angle of the brake actuator. I had adjusted the cable many times over the years.
EDIT: There's a better way to do this. See rufusswan's post below.


9th photo - The backing plate with brakes removed. I cleaned it with brake parts cleaner before putting the new ones on.


10th photo - New brakes on Replace the springs in the front of the shoes, and seat them on the post. Then, replace the rear spring.


11th photo - Loosen the brake cable and adjust the actuator. This could have and perhaps should have been done been done before starting the job. Would have made removing the rear spring a little easier.


Wrapping up - I was losing daylight and rain was coming on, so I had to speed up the rest of the process since I was in my backyard instead of the garage. I replaced the hub, placed the bushing on and replaced the castle nut using the impact wrench. Adjusted the brake cable, put the nut cover and cotter pin back on, and replaced the tire.

That's it. New brakes work great. I hope the photos help someone. I know it helps me when I have a photo to go along with instructions.

Here's the link to my google photos page. http://picasaweb.google.com/angryj/ScooterPhotos On the picasaweb site, you can zoom into the photos to make everything easier to see. Next time I do this, I may try a different hosting service that allows me to tag photos.

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Last edited by Angry J on Fri Apr 18, 2008 1:38 am; edited 1 time in total
Sat Apr 12, 2008 9:53 pm View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
rufusswan



Joined: 29 Sep 2007
Posts: 1786
Location: Taneyville, Missouri

Post Reply with quote
AJ,

Great effort. Gives everyone the opportunity to see what they are up against, which in the end is not too tricky at all. It takes a bit of time, but it is not an all day job, unless you get too involved in step #3.

I removed my front hub to clean it up and reseat things just a few days ago and would like to point out that replacing front hub is the same job, however you do not need to remove the rims in order to remove the front hub.

I agree that one should completely loosen the brake cable before removing the shoes. With most tension removed, using pliers to remove the springs is easier. You can use a flat blade screwdriver instead. Just grab the lower shoe and pull it out from the bottom, then using the screwdriver as a lever you can slowly "weanie" the bottom shoe over the pivot post on the left hand side. Once all tension on the springs is gone, it's a piece o' cake. Install in reverse. Attach both springs to the shoes and carefully install the top shoe. Set the bottom shoe on the right hand side, and "weanie" the left side of the bottom shoe onto the pivot post on the left.

Photo 10 shows the brake actuator between the shoes (it's on the right side at about 3:30). This shoes the new shoes installed but with the cable adjusted to the old, worn shoes. Photo 11 shows the new position of the actuator with all tension on the cable released.

Adjusting the cable is pretty easy, just snug up the cable and tighten the bolts. Spin the rear tire, it should spin freely without pressing the brake pedal. If you think you have to press the brake pedal down too far to engage the brake, then pull harder when you "just snug up the cable". Test ride, and don't be afraid to readjust the cable tension.

As to step 3, it may not be necessary, but for those who do not have the constitution for fine sour mash, I would suggest...


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Sun Apr 13, 2008 12:01 am View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail MSN Messenger
Angry J



Joined: 25 Mar 2007
Posts: 496
Location: Kansas City

Post Reply with quote
Agreed on all points! Very Happy

Every time I do some kind of project I forget a step somewhere in the middle. In this case is was releasing the tension in the brake cable. That's why I can't tell jokes. I'm always saying "no, wait, first there was this donkey, then a priest...".

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Sun Apr 13, 2008 2:16 am View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Owsley9



Joined: 05 Mar 2008
Posts: 214
Location: Birmingham, AL

Post Reply with quote
Angry J wrote:
first there was this donkey, then a priest...".


no comment

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Sun Apr 13, 2008 2:19 am View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
gbosslet



Joined: 19 May 2007
Posts: 138
Location: Indianapolis, IN

Post Reply with quote
Wow. This is why this forum rocks. I am only at 3K, but when I get close to 12, I can promise I will re-open this post. Great work and thanks from me.

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gtb
2006 Black Chetak
baby moons, whitewalls
otherwise stock all the way
Fri Apr 18, 2008 12:55 am View user's profile Send private message
cowboyrob



Joined: 26 Mar 2007
Posts: 831
Location: Fayetteville, AR

Post Reply with quote
Thanks Jeremy!

I have a ways to go before this is necessary, but I am glad you posted the pics. they will help when I get there.

Rob

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Fri Apr 18, 2008 5:01 pm View user's profile Send private message
matty_x



Joined: 06 Apr 2007
Posts: 1065

Post Reply with quote
Just a few pictures to add to Jeremy's excellent write up... and a bit of a story of my own.

So my bike's got 13,000 miles on it now. Last week I noticed that my brakes weren't working very well. I suspected that the rear brake actuator arm had gotten gummed up again from road grime. This had happened to me before. So I checked the lever and everything was OK. Removed the hub and my brake shoes were way worn down.

What a ripoff! Brake shoes that only last 13,000 miles?!!! Wink Wink Wink

On to the pictures:

Adding to Step 1, to remove the cotter pin I use a needle-nosed pliers. I get the cotter pin straight and then pull it through the castellated nut cover and axle.



Adding to Step 5, you may not have an impact wrench, in which case, you can use a regular old spanner and a helper bar.



Adding to Step 8, here's the easiest way on earth to remove the brake shoes.

Note that this method only works with the rear brakes!

Make sure that the brake cable has been disconnected.


Position a flat bladed screwdriver behind the brake shoes.


Pry forward.


The shoes and springs can now be removed intact.


And finally, you've got the bare hub. Clean it with brake parts cleaner, but don't get the brake parts cleaner on the seal in the middle of the hub (around the axle).


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Wed Sep 24, 2008 1:59 pm View user's profile Send private message
elvazhang



Joined: 22 Oct 2008
Posts: 2

Post Reply with quote
On Made-in-china.com you can find various Brake Pads for your car.
Brake Pads
Wed Oct 22, 2008 6:46 am View user's profile Send private message
Crusader Tom



Joined: 10 Aug 2008
Posts: 513
Location: Kansas City, Kansas

Post Reply with quote
...helpful hint: when using a cheater bar. have someone(better to have a fat guy)sit on the scooter with it in gear and the rear brake applied. it keeps the hub from turning and keeps the scooter from moving...

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Wed Oct 22, 2008 1:29 pm View user's profile Send private message
matty_x



Joined: 06 Apr 2007
Posts: 1065

Post Reply with quote
Tom, you're absolutely right. I had a challenge though, in that the brake pads were so worn they were no longer engaging enough to stop the rear wheel from turning. I came up with a simple solution. I threaded a 24mm wrench between the hub and the rim and then turned the wheel until the wrench was wedged between the swingarm and the rim/hub. I was really careful when using the helper bar to ensure that I wasn't bending the rim or messing up the hub... or messing up my wrench.

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Wed Oct 22, 2008 3:12 pm View user's profile Send private message
MJ



Joined: 30 May 2008
Posts: 194
Location: Portland, OR

Post Reply with quote
Me and some friends spent about 6 hours on Saturday trying to get my hub nut off since my rear brakes hadn't been serviced since I bought my scooter. We tried a 3ft torque wrench, tried lubrication, tried heating it up and even bought an impact gun. Nothing would get it off. Anybody have any other suggestions? The only thing I can think is to take it to a shop, have them loosen it a touch and then ride home and change them.

I'm not kidding when I say that nut would not budge. It was the most frustrating thing!
Mon Oct 27, 2008 7:10 pm View user's profile Send private message
matty_x



Joined: 06 Apr 2007
Posts: 1065

Post Reply with quote
I propose using a lot of heat and a minimum 4 foot helper bar.

Heat the nut for a long time with the heat gun on high. Like 20 minutes. You want that sucker to be super super hot.

Hit it with the really long helper bar after that and I'd be surprised if it doesn't budge.

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Mon Oct 27, 2008 8:51 pm View user's profile Send private message
donarntz
Site Admin


Joined: 01 Jul 2007
Posts: 235
Location: Austin, TX

Post Reply with quote
That nut didn't come off for me until I bought a craftsman impact wrench. A word about the brake actuator inside the hub that turns and forces the pads open: My brakes began to severely stick and drag. Changed the cable & outer cable to no avail. Turns out that pin was so dry and stuck that I could barely turn it with both hands on some pliers. Needless to say it took lots of penetrating oil and nudging back and forth and severe banging on the other end of it to get it out. I rubbed it liberally with some spline lube I had left over from the BMW bike days. Lesson is: if you have to open up the hub for any reason, don't forget to knock that pin out and grease heavily. Also, there's a small rubber gasket on the outside part of the pin, careful not to lose it.
Tue Jun 08, 2010 5:05 am View user's profile Send private message AIM Address
mpa5858



Joined: 07 May 2007
Posts: 129
Location: Chicago, IL

Post Reply with quote
Hey all,
This looks great. Thanks for posting it! I'm about to order the parts to do this job, and I've got a quick question: Do I have to order the brake shoes to get the pads or can I just order new brake pads? When I look at the spare parts catalog, it seems like I have to order the entire brake shoe assembly. Just wanted to make sure I'm not misreading something before I order. Thanks!

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2006 Jade Green Chetak
Wed Jul 27, 2011 10:54 pm View user's profile Send private message
donarntz
Site Admin


Joined: 01 Jul 2007
Posts: 235
Location: Austin, TX

Post Front brake shoe Reply with quote
I know a buddy 150 shoe can be used for the rear, but what to sub the front!!??
Mon May 28, 2012 8:41 pm View user's profile Send private message AIM Address
cane_prevost



Joined: 23 Mar 2010
Posts: 215
Location: Portland Oregon

Post Reply with quote
Driving my scoot last week I noticed my rear brake pedal going all the way to the floor without biting. I immeidately thought snapped cable. I inspected it yesterday and found the cable intact. The brake arm connected to the cable seems to be traveling just fine as well. Anything I should try before I open this sucker up? Only 7 thousand miles so I'm thinking rear brakes can't be work yet.
Mon Aug 04, 2014 1:58 am View user's profile Send private message
cane_prevost



Joined: 23 Mar 2010
Posts: 215
Location: Portland Oregon

Post Reply with quote
Never mind. Cable was out of adjustment. Once again the Chetak proves it's a horrible machine if you want to learn to work on bikes. I keep waiting and waiting and nothing seems to ever break.
Sun Aug 10, 2014 8:27 pm View user's profile Send private message
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